The 199 Steps and St Mary's Church

The church stairs have climbed from Church Street to St Mary's since at least 1370. Count them as you go; there are 199, with wide landings that were originally rest stops for coffin bearers. St Mary's at the top is a wonderful muddle of Georgian box pews, galleries and a three-decker pulpit, and the churchyard is where Dracula's Lucy sleepwalked.

Go early or late to avoid the crowds, and turn round on the way up for the view of the harbour.